Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Laurel, version two : the Pantone dress!

I am in love with this Colette Laurel pattern.


This time around, I was inspired by a J Crew shift and then this vintage shift:
photo courtesy Red Velvet Shoe Vintage
For this version, I decided to use a cotton sateen from Elliot Berman Textiles. While I love the sheen of the finish, I don't know that I'd describe it as a sateen. It's very lightweight, almost like a voile. It has a beautiful silky drape and the colors were exactly what I was looking for to enter this version into the Pantone Color Contest at Pattern Review.

While it's hard to capture the true colors with a camera, trust me, this print has the perfect  Nectarine, Poppy Red, Tender Shoots and African Violet. Just that combination sounds delicious, doesn't it? Now, the other thing that REALLY attracted me to this fabric is how I could bring it back to black, which I wear a lot of.
There is something bold about the black added to this palette of floral colors just anchors it all together.

This delicate fabric required a lining. I chose a red bemberg rayon ( love, love, love) which slinks and silks right along with the dress fabric.

I used french seams to finish the dress, and did hand sewn hems. I tried a new finish on the arms scythe, which I learned from a couture sewing book. I chose this method since I did not line my sleeves, which  left the raw edges of the seams exposed.

The sleeve seam is trimmed down to  a 1/4 inch, leaving the dress portion of the arm scythe as the full 5/8/" seam. (ha! do you use your jeans as a pincushion, too?)

The 5/8" dress fabric is then folded around the 1/4" trimmed sleeve fabric and hand sewn in place to cover the entire seam. it creates a nice delicate finish without having to fiddle with bias binding.



And finally, ( I know, Lori,  that this was not your favorite option according to your text last night!) I added a delicate beading trim to the neckline.I think it gives it  just a bit of sassiness without detracting from the print.


So, here's my dress!


 And I am in love with this online sewing community. After making my first Laurel, and having some concerns with it shifting toward my back, some of you gave some me  suggestions about how to resolve that.

It made sense to me that the shoulder seams should be shifted forward, so that's exactly what I did. By about a 1/2 inch.

It didn't make as much sense to me the physics behind raising the back neckline. But I trusted you all and I did just that. Raised the back neckline by almost 2 " and lowered the front neckline about an inch.
Doing both of these adjustments worked like magic on the fit.

And with the coat?

I could wear both of these pieces a hundred different ways.

Now, is this the most flattering style for me? Probably not, but I have to admit I am crazy about the ease of this dress for summer. I can't imagine it getting any breezier for work or weekends.

Please check out the gallery of participant entries at Pattern Review Pantone Color Contest and choose your favorite starting May 3rd!

22 comments:

  1. I love your dress with all the wonderful spring colors! Looks so mod to me - I love Mod.

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  2. I love this dress, simply gorgeous!

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  3. I think this is my absolute favorite of all the Laurel dresses I've seen online. I love that fabric! And you look great in it. The slight changes you did really made a difference. I'm not sure that a shift dress is the most universally flattering of all dress designs but it will be perfect on a hot summer day! And that shape is everywhere this year.

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  4. OOOO, I LOVE your dress!! The fabric is FABulous! And the fit really looks terrific now.

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  5. I too love this dress and I think it flatters you. Gorgeous!

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  6. I love, love, love your dress, it looks amazing on you and that coat is over the top. Also, you were right and I was wrong about the trim, happy you vetoed my opinion! LOL

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  7. Love, love, love the dress and think it looks hot with the leggings.

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  8. What a great dress! I love it. and the beaded trim is just the right touch - lovely. g

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  9. Wonderfully made. Wonderfully accessorised. Wonderfully dressed.

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  10. Love the dress with the leggings!

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  11. I love that fabric, and with the coat - pow!

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  12. really cute, such lively colours

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  13. Sometimes there is a lot to be said for letting go of what suits you and wearing what you like for fun. Its funky, its fun and I think you will get lots of enjoyment out of wearing it. You look as though you already do :-)

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  14. It is lovely on you. I think I Now have your haircut!!!! I hope I look as snappy as you!!!!

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  15. This is so adorable on you! I love it! It's such a perfect dress, and with the coat-- killer!

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  16. This is such a "happy" dress. You just have to be in a wonderful mood the moment you put this on! Looks wonderful on you. Love the coat!

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  17. Absolutely LOVE THIS!! Everything about it -- the dress, the coat. I am disappointed that I have to be a member for 3 months before voting, because I can't imagine a better entry. Brava!!

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  18. Hello
    I've enjoyed reading your blog and I wanted to tell you that I've nominated you for a Liebster Award. Please pop over to my blog http://everydayimstitchin.blogspot.co.uk/ when you get a free moment to find our more about the award.
    Gemma x

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  19. I Love that fabric! The colors look fantastic on you!

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  20. This dress looks really fabulous on you! The colors and shape are so flattering - great work! : ) Choosing colors can be so difficult, and this Pantone palette looks perfect on you. Also, I love the sleeve finishing technique - I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for sharing!

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  21. I think the fit is just lovely on you. As I am getting ready to cut my first Laurel (and have a similar body shape) it's so reassuring to check out your blog to look for inspiration!

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