Wednesday, April 18, 2012

The Black Dress

The Black Dress is another of our  Basic Wardrobe Sew-Along Pieces.


It is classic, chic, simple, elegant, casual, special, everyday, versatile, and essential. Historians say that  Coco Chanel gave birth to this classic  in the 1920's and it has been a wardrobe staple ever since.
Of course we all remember Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany's, who wore her simple black dress so well that she became an icon of the LBD ever since!


While I won't bore you with a long list of patterns and fabrics, I can say this... practically any pattern you choose can become your black dress. Your pattern plus your fabric choice is essential in determining whether your black dress is for casual or dressy....or both! 
photo thanks to  Tori's Misadventures

Black dresses are my go-to's when nothing else seems to work. I have a few black cotton knit dresses that I can wear with a bright cardi or denim jacket for work or weekend. I have a few dressier versions in linen and cotton/silk that I have made and they have served me well both  at work and weekend OR for special occasions.
If you select a simple style made from a fine fabric, your dress can easily cover all your dress bases.


So I say, have fun. Use your imagination. and tell me about your favorite black dress! 



My own Clinton Kelly

You know, it’s not every day that you come downstairs all ready to go out the door only to have your husband (aka Personal Style Consultant/Critic) give you the once over.

“So, is that trendy these days?”

“Is what trendy?”

“Wearing pink and orange.”
(I am wearing  a very adorable fuschia tunic under a deep coral drapey cotton cardigan atop a pair of darling slim black ankle pants so there.)

“Yes, it is dear, very trendy.”
( I am also wondering if he is recalling all of the times that he complained that I should wear more color…I need to get away from all that gloomy doomy black and gray.)

“That’s called ‘hot blocking,’ isn’t it?”
(I am a wee bit surprised that he got it half-right… could he actually be browsing through my In Style magazines while  behind closed bathroom doors every morning like a good Personal Style Consultant/Critic should?)

Yes, dear. It’s called “hot-blocking.” If you actually care enough to care, we can call it “hot blocking” my little Clinton Kelly.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Burda Style 7360. A Spring Coat

Without the simple lines of this coat, the print wouldn't work. Without the print, this coat wouldn't work. Which to me, makes a perfectly perfect Spring coat. I was inspired by a couple of black and white
Kate Spade trench coats, and all my sewing plans got put aside until I could make my own version. As usual, the Burda Style pattern is beautifully drafted, but requires a sewing skill set to work through the instructions.  (you'll have to excuse my photos..I have been having some sucky camera issues of late)


This coat is made from a heavy cotton sateen from Joann's April Johnston for Project Runway , and lined with an anti-static lining. 



I just love that unexpected surprise of cobalt blue.  Every once in awhile, you can even get a peek of it up the sleeves. The 3/4 sleeves...a modification from the original pattern.
My other modifications? I raised the pockets by about 3 inches...they were exceptionally low on the original pattern.


The back has a very deep vent ( which you cannot see here!) One change I wish I had made was to make the coat a bit more A-line than it is.


I was about to put the lining in yesterday and  started to seriously think about bound buttonholes. So, after practicing, I decided to go for it.

I found some excellent tutorials on line...

Gertie's bound buttonholes ( this is the method I used)
And Sharon's tutorial for finishing the back of the buttonhole. 
And even though it took me a good part of the afternoon, I'm SO glad I added this extra special feature. And SO proud that I learned something new!


For me, I hit just the right mix of style and print and surprise, and I would certainly recommend  using Burda 7360.  It has interesting lines, a fabulous fit and some interesting design options.

Have a fabulous week, my friends!

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

I can have my popcorn and ice cream, too!

I have been eating popcorn every day...in addition to ice cream every night. Aren't they the two best snacks ever?
I can't decide which one I would like, so I have them both. The ultimate in self-indulgence, right?

I get like that when I'm making stuff. Why only one coat when I can have two?  Should I have to choose between two different styles of ankle pants or can't I have both? Or why can't a girl own more than two maxi skirts, right? That's right! We get to make whatever we want!

My black and white Burda trench is about to get a lining. And I'm very, VERY excited about this coat. I think about it when I'm at work, take ten minutes in the morning to pin something or sew a seam, and race upstairs when I get home to get in a bit of sewing time before I make dinner. I just want to finish it and wear it!


Then comes along Spring Trench #2, which was a thrift find. And I am very, VERY excited about this coat, too!


Basically, the color is amazing, and it has modification possibilities, so....


I have already begun the transformation.


It will be fun to have both coats for Spring/Summer. Just like having popcorn and ice cream.
I'm reminded of one of my all time favorite Peanuts cartoons:

Snoopy is sitting on his doghouse, typing his novel. In the first panel, he writes: 
`Edith had refused to marry him because he was too fat.' 
Panel two: `Why don't you go on a diet?, suggested a friend. You can't have your cake and Edith too.' 
Panel three: `Mmmm!' thinks, Snoopy, turning from the typewriter and joyfully kicking his dog feet in the air. 
Last panel: `It's exciting when you've written something that you know is good!'

 It's exciting when you are making  something that you know is good. My two coats are good. And I'm excited.

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Happy Easter!


I am forgiven, free, greatly loved and blessed. 
Happy Resurrection Day!




Thursday, April 5, 2012

My Sewing Dreams

Thanks for all of your comments on the Mad Men dress! I have actually entered it into the
Pattern Review Vintage Contest, my first ever Pattern Review Contest. ( Thanks Carolyn, for the heads up!)
So pop on over and vote for your favorite starting April 17th! And just maybe it will be mine!

I am woefully neglect in my Spring Wardrobe Basics Sew Along. I have every intention of doing that shirt dress (see the end of this post) and some jeans. I've never made jeans, actually. So since I have some skinnies already, I'm thinking of trying some trouser style jeans....such as these:

Butterick 5682

And that shirtdress...seriously.

My mind has been all over the place as far as sewing. I've put together a few color stories:



 And trying to decide in which direction to go.  My  leaning is toward the  royal blue/red line, but then I change my mind about every other day. 

I guess I get to do that, right? I have the fabric, I have the time, and I get to make whatever I want. I was totally sidetracked this week by wanting a print trench style coat for Spring. Without that classic "trench coat" styling. So, of course, I shopped the RTW,

Kate Spade

Fell in love with these Kate Spade designs...
Kate Spade

And shopped my stash for the perfect black and white floral sateen.


)oh, that cobalt blue? those will be ankle pants. I'm so excited.)   I've cut out the jacket  and I'm on my way. The pattern I'm using is Burda Style 7360.

I think using such a bold print calls for a less fussy trench. And, I don't do well with fussy and double breasted and all those extras. I LOVE the lines of this pattern. It has such a sleek look to it.

Let's see...I'm pretty much dying to make some tops from my Renfrew pattern:


And the search is on for the perfect fabric to make a shirt dress. I'm almost thinking of using some black eyelet that I've had for years....

Similar, from another source

What do you think? Would it translate well into a shirt dress?  How would you suggest lining it, if at all? Your thoughts? Your ideas?



Sunday, April 1, 2012

Butterick 5557. My Mad Men Dress

Over at Julia Bobbin,  you'll find lots of ladies who are crazy about Mad Men. She hosted a SewAlong, and, yes, I participated. Just today, I put the finishing touches on my Joanie inspiration dress. I haven't emailed my photo to Julia yet, so until then, I'll share some background of my dress and some photos of my finished project.

I was inspired by the incredible florals that were seen throughout the first four seasons...representing a femininity and softness in such a man's world.




So, while Joanie didn't often wear florals...just for special occasions like a dinner party with Greg's boss or for the Cleo's, I was blown away when Season 5 was getting amped up and I saw this Joan :


And in the Season Five premier, we saw this Joan:


And I was hooked. (Check out the piped scoop neck of the pink dress, and the beaded sleeve edges of both dresses.)  Of course, it doesn't hurt that these ladies were years ahead of their time, right?  Because what exactly is hot this 2012 Spring?

Florals! Bold, wonderful florals!


In everything from dresses and skirts to jeans and jackets.  I selected my fabric, which is a charmeuse. But  you know how charmeuse can be so shiny sometimes? But it was this back side of this bold floral that I was in love with.


My pattern was Butterick 5557, from their Retro line. A copy of a 1955 pattern. This pattern is a two piece, but I knew it would work better for me...giving me a few more curves with that wonderful peplum-ish  top.



In addition to changing the neckline to a scoop neck and adding piping to the neck edge



I also added some beading trim to the sleeve hems. By layering two different beaded trims, I created a custom trim to add to the sleeve. I simply sewed them together the two along the ribbon using my zipper foot.



So here she is:


My tribute to Joan Holloway.


Now I just need a special occasion!